Last month I was invited to the Western Sahara to report on a conflict I knew nothing about. Without even thinking about it, I responded with my characteristic “Hell yeah, I’ll go.” I mean, sleeping on the floor of refugee camps is sort of my thing. Why not?
So on December 6th I boarded a plane to Paris, then on to Algiers. We landed in Algiers and were met by amabassadors who took us to lunch in town. It was meat on a skewer, bread and dates, basically, but it was wonderful – and really nice to see some of the city before we headed off into the middle of the desert.
Meat skewers - we picked out our own and they threw them on the grill. Lamb, chicken, sausage, and some sort of kidney we were so not brave enough to try.
We returned to the airport to pick up the Chicago contingent of our delegation and left several hours after planned. We learned later, while talking to a group of people from a huge Spanish delegation, that they refer to Air Algerie as “Insha’Allah Air”, or “If God Wills it”… apparently they’re even less reliable than the airlines around here. We did, however, make it to Tindouf in one piece and were transported by Land Rover (the official vehicle of the Western Sahara) to our compound.
We stayed on a chicken farm on an oasis about half an hour outside of Tindouf. Don’t know where tindouf is? You’re most likely not alone. Here’s a map:
So, really far away from everything. Now let me give you a little bit of background on the conflict we were investigating.
Back in 1975, Spain began the process of decolonizing Morocco, and held meetings with the Polisario leaders to negotiate the independence of the Saharawis. The UN became involved and went to the Saharawis to gather information on public opinion – did these people actually want independence? The answer was resoundingly yes. Morocco, however, invaded the Western Sahara on November 6th and a bloody battle ensued. The Saharawis left in protest, setting up the four camps on Algerian soil – this territory is where I spent all of last week.
From the moment we arrived, I was impressed with the Saharawis. They were beautiful – vibrant clothing, animated in their conversation, and incredibly hospitable. Over the course of the next few days we met with the President, the President’s wife, the Prime Minister, the Speaker of the Parliament, the Defense Minister, the Education Minister, the head of the Red Crescent, and the head of a Saharawi women’s organization. We toured hospitals, schools, museums, and camps, and slept in the home of a refugee family. Everywhere we went, there was only one request: Tell Americans our story.
Right now, Morocco is spending billions on this fight, arming the 1,200+ mile Berm on the border of the Western Sahara and now lobbying the US Congress with propaganda about the supposed horrendous conditions in the camps and information on how the Algerian government is holding these people hostage. One thing was clear from everyone we spoke to: The Saharawis are in camps in voluntary protest. No one is holding them against their will. They are incredibly well educated, and the only hostility I encountered was from a woman who was upset that the United States, the freest nation in the world, wouldn’t recognize their fight to be independent.
It’s taken me a few days to process everything, but over the next few days I will be posting several articles about the trip, focusing on the women, the culture, and their fight for self determination. Please feel free to ask questions, and send this information around, and look into the conflict for yourself. The Saharawis are an incredible group of people, and it was an honor to get to spend time with them.
Free Western Sahara!
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You are not the first one that was miss-leaded or miss-informed I should say. Algeria created this problem to ensure that morocco will never ask for tindouf and the surrounded area. That is moroccan land. The population of the sahrawis in the camps is deived in 3 categories.
Sahraouis From “western sahara” about 30.000,00
Sahraouis from mauritania about 15.000,00
And sahraouis from subsaharienne africa about 40.00,00. Miss miterand was supporting them and she changed her side after discovering the reality. about 60 countries freesed withdaw their reconnaition of RASD.
I m not trying ti infuence you, I m moroccan and you should go to the other side of the borders where the majority of the sahraouis are and find out the truth, by the way there was no polisario officialy in 1975, there was a mixture of mercenaires paid by Algeria. Polisario was created 1976.
S
I would like to say congratulations Tabitha! From the time that you became interested in politics you seem to have come a long way. I am not the jealous type but I have to admit that I am envious of your adventures. What is next Tabitha of Arabia?
It would probably be wise to seek a wider perspective on the conflict as to understand the motivations of the different groups.
Just be careful as in that part of the world normal rules do not apply.
Joe
independence and freedom is not just an american thing is it? it’s God-breathed into all of us.
thanks for all the updates on fb. i have been compelled to follow your time there in the western sahara because of all your photos…and those women and children. thanks for a good post and i look forward to more.
Things are, indeed a little more complex than they could / should? be. While growing up I lived in Morocco for a few years, at an American Naval Air Station outside Kenitra. We learned quite a bit about Morocco and the Western Sahara. Morocco was part of French North Africa, as was Algeria. Part of my learning about the cultures was to also learn French and Arabic. The border between the two nations was a dotted line at this time (about 1960ish), because of the claims and counter claims. I would hazard a guess that Said Armani is either Moroccan or came from Moroccan roots.
South of Morocco was the piece of land you’re talking about that was called Spanish Sahara. This was the area that was ‘decolonized’ by Spain. There are very old claims by any number of entities that might make a case that ‘they’ are the rightful owners of this land. I am not going to hazard a guess and say who has the best claim. By and large, though, I am a conservative and would think that the locals should be ruling themselves, without the ‘benefit’ of heavy-handed imperialism from Rabat or Algiers.